Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Dhakai Jamdani

Dhakai Jamdani sarees are distinguished from other varieties by it's fine texture resembling muslin and the elaborate and ornate workmanship. These sarees have multicolored linear or floral motifs all over the body ans have an exquisitely designed elaborate pallu. The mango motif signifying fertility,growth and martial bliss which is a very popular design in jamdani sarees. The Dhakai jamdani is woven painstakingly by hand on the old fashioned jala loom, and many take even upto one year to weave a single saree. It feels supple to the touch and drapes gently to reveal the contours of wearer.

Tangail Jamdani

These sarees have jamdani motifs on Tangail fabric and hence known as Tangail Jamdani. The traditional tangail borders had a 'paddo' or lotus pattern, 'pradeep' or lamp pattern, apart from the popular 'aansh paar' which was common to Shantipur. From the use of a single color on the border, they began to use two to three colors to give it 'meenakari' effect.

Shantipur Jamdani

The 'Shantipuri' sarees are named after the village 'Shantipur' in Nadia district of West bengal, which is famous for the 'vaishnava' culture propagated by Sri Gaurango Mahaprovu. These sarees have a powder fine texture and display a sophistications and subtlety of temperament. The borders on the sarees of shantipur could be either dyed cotton-silk or art silk or viscose yarns or gold and silver zaris. The background of the sarees has fine and delicate checks, stripes or a texture created by colored threads or a combination of fine and thicker yarn. The pallu of the saree which hangs from the shoulder has butis or jamdani designs beautifully arranged along with stripes of different widths. Some tie and dye designs are also being used for the pallu of shantipur sarees.

Dhaniakhali Jamdani

Having a tighter weave than the ''tangail'' or ''shantipur'' , Dhaniakhali jamdani is more hardy. It's bold body colors and contrasting borders and absurdly low prices make them very affordable.

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Various Types of Jamdani Sarees

There are at least six varieties of Jamdani sarees. They are Dhakai jamdani, Tangail jamdani, Shantipur jamdani, Dhaniakhali jamdani, Begumpur jamdani, Silk jamdani and so on.

Varities of Jamdani Work

The main peculiarity of jamdani work is the geometric design.The expert weavers do not need to draw the design on paper.They do it
from their memory.Jamdanis have different names according to their designs. For instance,Panna Hajar,
  • A jamdani with small flowers diapered on the fabric is known as 'butidar'.
  • If these flowers are arranged in reclined position it is called 'tersa' jamdani.
  • It is not necessary that these designs are made of flowers only.There can be designs with peacocks and leaves of creepers . If such designs cover the entire field of the saree, it is called 'jalar naksha'.
  • If the field is covered with rows of flowers, it is known as 'fulwar jamdani'.
  • 'Duria jamdani' has design of spots all over.
  • 'Belwari jamdani' with colorful golden borders used to be made during the mughal period,especially for the women of the inner court.

Silk Jamdani Saree

The silk Jamdani, a technical variety of brocade or the 'figured muslin' ,traditionally woven in Banaras may be considered to be one of the finest products to come out of the Banarasi loom. Here silk fabric is brocaded with cotton and rarely with zari threads. jamdani is woven by transfixing the pattern thread between a varying number of warp threads in proportion to the size of the designed then throwing the shuttle to pass the regular weft. By repeating this process, where in the size and placing of the cut-thread is in accordance with the character of the pattern, the Jamdani weaver produces arrange of intricate designs.