Weaving Jamdani

Jamdani is an elaborate style in cotton weaving. The object must have been to provide higly decorative garments for the royalty or noblemen. White or coloured designs of great intricacy are created using a method of weaving,somewhat like tapestry work. Small shuttles filled with coloured, gold or silver thread, are passed through the warp as required for the basic weave.The fabric appears lacelike with shadowy figured designs,dreamy and suggestive. A speciality of Dhakai jamdani, the long warp threads are arranged,as in the case of any ordinary cloth. The pattern of the embroidery is drawn on paper and pinned beneath the warp. While weaving the workman has to raise the paper pattern to ascertain if the weft has neared to where a flower or figure had to appear. When the exact spot is reached, he uses a bamboo silver to pass each buti thread through the warp, sewing down the inserted thread. When the embroidered pattern is continous and regular, the weaver usually dispenses with the paper pattern. Two weavers normally work at a loom to accelerate as also simplify the work.